On two motorcycles we traveled on our world trip also the north of America. This trip took us to the last great adventure routes of North America. The legendary roads: Dempster and Dalton Highway.
Dempster Highway
After forest fires deprived us of our first gravel road in a long time (Highway 4 "Robert-Campbell-Highway" in the Yukon), we are waiting eagerly in Dawson City to finally drive up the so much praised Dempster Highway. Almost 1,800 km of gravel road lie ahead of us. At the end of June and in bright sunshine we set off and are curious to see what awaits us. We were able to leave most of our luggage at the North-Western-Territory Visitors Center in Dawson City and are thus a lot lighter on the road. Quickly the thermometer climbs over 20 degrees and will reach over 30 degrees in the afternoon. In the visitor center we could also get the latest information about the weather and road conditions. According to the weather forecast it should stay this hot the whole week, but "smoky" - we get to know a completely new weather situation here. The condition of the road is stated as "fair". Whether that means "just passable" or "good to drive", no one at the Visitor Center could explain to us. But if you're there, you're got to try. After the first 40 km of asphalt, we refuel again, since there will be no more opportunity to do so for the next 380 km. We also fill up our gas bladders, since our bikes (F 800 GS and F 700 GS) only have a range of about 330 km.
After a short time of acclimatization, we get used to the well-prepared gravel road and it goes swiftly along. Again, and again trucks, all slowing down and driving on the far right, as well as caravans and campers come towards us and cover us with the first layers of dust. Past the Tombstone National Park, we glide along grandiose ever changing landscape. Until we reach our destination in Eagle Plains, we largely go without big breaks because as soon as we stop, we are greeted by hundreds of mosquitoes and blackflies. The only little challenge is a stretch of about 10 km, where due to the dryness, consists only of pure sand and requires a bit more driving skills. Shortly before Eagle Plains we stop for a short drinking break. However, this turns into an almost hour-long conversation with a trucker. He tells us all about his 10-year career on the Dempster and that he actually prefers to drive in winter, because then the road is better and he also doesn't have to wait for the ferries - here there are the famous ice roads over the rivers in winter. To our luck the mosquito spray helps here against the pests.
After we camped the night in Eagles Plains, we continue the next day. Already 40 km later we reach the arctic circle for the first time at over 30 degrees. Soon after that we leave the province "Yukon" and are now in the province "North-Western-Territories".
About 160 km after Eagle Plains the road drops relatively quickly to sea level and we come to the first ferry across the Peel River. Through deep truck ruts we glide onto the ferry, which is pulled by a rope. The crossing itself takes less than 5 minutes. 15 km later we refuel in Fort McPherson. The destination of the day is Inuvik. But we don't get that far. Shortly after, Kerstin's handlebars start to vibrate. The culprit is quickly found: a screw holding the front headlight is gone. So we fix the headlight with wire and drive back to Fort McPherson. At the gas station Andreas ask if there is a garage nearby that is still open. It is Sunday and shortly before 6 pm. The helpful lady makes a short phone call and sends us back a few kilometers. Right across from the Fort McPherson airport is "LJ's Garage". There, we get a suitable oily dirty screw and not 5 minutes later we are ready to go again. Due to the advanced time we decide to spend the night at the Territorial Campground just around the corner. To our surprise there is a clean shower with wonderful hot water.
Refreshed, we continue our journey towards Inuvik the next day, where we do some shopping and refuel. We visit the Visitor Center, get our "Crossing the Arctic Circle" certificate and again get the latest information about weather and road conditions as well as some sightseeing tips. And off we go on the last 150 km to Tuktoyaktuk. On the first 50 km to Inuvik the Dempster Highway still presents itself in its wonderfully prepared form before it changes into occasionally deeper loose gravel. To the misfortune of our tires, the stones also become sharper. By now we have reached the tundra and everywhere along the road are beautiful lakes and unique landscapes.
The gravel on the road constantly changes from sharp-edged stones to small round stones.
Three hours later we reach Tuktoyaktuk and for the first time in our lives we are standing at the Arctic Ocean. Honestly we don´t really feel like being there, because the thermometer on the motorcycle shows 32 degrees. We find a small place for our tent directly on the shore of the "Point", the northernmost tip of the peninsula. We spend the whole evening talking to other travelers. We (all tourists camping there) are not only entertain our camping neighbors - we are apparently also an attraction for the locals. The whole night they "cruise" directly on the only road behind us. With the here usual pick-ups or with their quads. On these you can see whole families. A real corso in nocturnal brightness for: "going tourist watching".
Whereby you can´t really speak of day or night time since the sun does not go down at this season and we go to sleep with beaming sunshine shortly after midnight. The next day we go swimming into the Arctic Sea, which is warmer here than some mountain lakes in Austria, because the Mc Kenzy River brings lots of warm water to the sea. So we not only dip our toes in, but go for a real swim. At a distance of only five kilometers we can still see the entire pack ice. The water is not only pleasantly warm, but also rather sweet than salty.
Dalton Highway
The Dalton Highway was originally our destination in North America. The northernmost point, which can be reached with a vehicle, should be the “starting” point for our journey on the American continent.
After a two-day break in a "tree tent" at "Sven's Basecamp Hostel" we started around noon with bright sunshine, but much cooler temperatures than we had two weeks ago on the Dempster Highway.
The first 130 km we drive on a paved road towards the north. Shortly after Fairbanks the traffic thins out and we hardly see any vehicles on the road. After two hours we reach the beginning of the Dalton Highway. At the official sign we stop briefly for the obligatory "before photo". Unfortunately, it is again not a short stop, because we are immediately involved in a conversation with a German couple. Half an hour later we finally continue towards "Coldfoot" - our destination for the day.
Asphalted parts alternate with gravel roads for the next 90 km before we reach the Yukon River Camp. By now, the few unadorned cabins, which mostly contain a restaurant, a gas station, a few rooms and garage, have become a familiar sight for us. After a short refueling stop - here in the north motorcyclists better take every opportunity to refuel - we continue on mainly gravel roads for the next 90 km to the Arctic Circle.
The gravel roads are mostly in better condition than the paved sections and feel almost like a highway to us. Due to the permafrost there are cracks, huge potholes and partly broken away road sections that you have to drive around.
The landscape hardly changes until shortly after Camp Coldfoot. It goes along the pipeline over rolling hills through different green shaded forests. From time to time you are reminded that forest fires are commonplace here. Some parts of the forest have recently fallen victim to the flames and you can still see the one or other column of smoke rising. All this although, as we learn later, the forest fire season should actually already be over.
In Camp Coldfoot - another unadorned camp - we pitch our tent. The tent meadow directly beside the helipad is normally perfect for camping, but due to the rainfalls of the last days it is about one centimeter under water. Shortly before bedtime, we are reminded once again that we should keep food and all scented items (deodorants, toothpaste, etc.) bear-proof. About four hours before we set up our tent, another grizzly bear walked through camp. And we wouldn't be the first campers to have a bear show up in our tent. For the bears there in the north the season is even shorter than for the rest of the bears in the country, so they have to take every opportunity to put on their winter fat.
Fortunately, without encountering a bear we continue the next day towards Deadhorse.
The weather gods are not kind to us today and shortly after Camp Coldfoot it starts pouring.
The first 50 km after Coldfoot are, like the 70 km before are again asphalted and so we make good progress despite the rain. When we have gravel under the tires again, we drive slowly. We were warned several times that the road should be muddy and slippery. Andreas tests a few times when the ABS on the rear wheel strikes. He barely gets it to respond and even so we notice little difference to the dry road. Instead of a layer of dust, however, we are now covered with a layer of mud and we are already afraid of cleaning after the return. The gravel is mixed with a substance called calcium chloride, which literally sticks to the vehicles.
After another hour in the rain we reach Atigun Pass. With an altitude of 1,470 m this is the highest point on our route. Shortly after the pass the landscape changes completely. At first we drive along smaller mountain ranges into the tundra.
Also the weather has changed and the sun smiles at us again with warm 17 degrees. We glide again on a dry road fascinated by the tundra. Our dreaming does not last long. A 24 km long construction site lies in front of us and we have to wait for the pilot car. Waiting here means a waiting time of about 30 minutes or more. The friendly road worker, whose only job is to hold up the traffic until the Pilot Car arrives, tells us that just behind the construction site there should be musk oxen. Indeed, after we have struggled through the construction site as the pilot car was sometimes going terribly slow, we see a herd of about 10 musk oxen grazing peacefully next to the road. We continue on a well prepared gravel road through the tundra and can hardly get enough of the landscape, which consists of rolling hills and small lakes. Everywhere we see different birds and occasionally reindeer. 80 km before Deadhorse the gravel road ends and we have asphalt under the wheels again. This time, however, not littered with potholes, but a brand new highway! It's only 4 p.m. when we arrive in Deadhorse, but the thermometer has dropped to 6 degrees and an icy wind is blowing against in our faces. We book a room at the "Aurora Hotel" in Deadhorse. A measly USD 275.00 for a two-bed room. The price shocks us a bit at first, but relativizes itself, because food around the clock, laundry, gym and internet are included in the price. After a hot shower, we spend the rest of the evening at the hotel and sleeping and eating.
The next morning we would have the possibility to be brought to the Arctic Ocean by a shuttle bus. However, the approx. USD 70.00 per person are not worth the trip, since we were already swimming in the Arctic Ocean. In addition, as a non-US citizen, you have to register at least 24 hours before the trip, because a security check is carried out.
Conclusio
Which of the two highways we preferred? The answer to this question is difficult for us, because the two routes are on the one hand the same and yet so different. We have therefore divided our answer into different categories.
Road: Here, the Dempster Highway clearly wins. Except for a short stretch in Inuvik, it is a continuous gravel road. There are also constant road maintenance measures. The Dalton Highway, on the other hand, is a mixture of asphalt and gravel, and even the gravel sections can basically be ridden on motorcycles, such as Harleys, if the road is consistently dry. There are road maintenance measures here as well.
Landscape: Even if both routes fascinated us, the Dalton Highway wins here. Starting with rolling forested hills, it goes along rivers through mountain valleys into the breathtaking tundra.
Even though both highways pass through the tundra, they presented themselves quite differently. At the Dalton there were also much more animals to observe. And it is definitely an experience to drive right next to the pipeline - or to look for the pipeline in the landscape, because now and then it runs underground.
Traffic: Here, too, the Dalton wins for us. There are more of the infamous trucks, but they all slow down and keep extremely to the right when they see motorcyclists. The truck drivers on the Dempster Highway do the same, but unfortunately not the many motorhomes or caravans of the other tourists. These often do not slow down and quite often they stay in their lane or worse in the middle of the road, forcing motorcyclists onto the soft and loose roadside. Also the dust clouds that are created here are not to be underestimated.
Infrastructure: Here, the Dempster Highway clearly wins. Along the entire way there are campgrounds with different equipment, gas stations and with Fort McPherson, Inuvik and Taktuyaktuk towns with different sizes.
Places of interest: Here, again, the Dempster Highway wins out. Because of the towns and villages in this region, there is correspondingly more tourist infrastructure. Also, the government is trying to revive and promote this region more and more. In Inuvik there are different workshops and festivals where you can participate.
On the Dalton Highway there are only a few display boards and a Visitor Center (highly recommended) in Coldfoot.
Challenge: 10 things to know before driving", "How I survived the Dalton Highway" are just two headlines suggested by internet searches. The web is full of "horror stories" which, by and large, we cannot confirm.
Both are well-maintained roads that are easily passable with average driving skills and a well-serviced vehicle. Nevertheless, the highways should not be underestimated. Road conditions that can change from day to day, no service such as cell phone reception, lack of gas stations or garages for long distances, and even the weather can change very quickly. In addition, it can take hours for an ambulance, rescue plane or helicopter to arrive at an accident scene. You should definitely plan enough breaks to recover a bit and enjoy the scenery. Most breakdowns we witnessed didn´t occur because of the roads. It were ill maintained or equipped vehicles, tired drivers of drivers going too fast.